余(魚)眼看臺灣 2014 - 第一部曲 - 九份

Taiwan in Fisheye 2014 - Part I - Jiu Fen

這是我們第一次寫旅遊文章，而且還是中文和英文都有喔！全部照片都是以Canon 7D + Rokina 8mm Fisheye lens所拍攝的。之所以為叫作＂余＂眼是因為我們的Cedric大哥姓余，也是他第一次來台灣觀光，所以 Cedric 用魚眼鏡頭拍下余眼看見的台灣！

獻給我們在台灣以及溫哥華的家人與朋友們！

For our friends and family in Taiwan and Vancouver, this will be our first post written in both Chinese and English from different perspectives. The mandarin title includes a play on the word "fisheye"; Cedric's last name is "Yu", which sounds like the Mandarin word for Fish (pronounced "yu"). It is Cedric's first time in Taiwan so we thought it's an appropriate title. All shot on Canon 7D + Rokina 8mm Fisheye cine-lens. Enjoy!

九份一個有著金礦文化以及許多歷史的山頭小鎮，看著美麗的海景、迷人的老街、好幾部電影的場景、吃著九份特產，這裡是個不管外國人還是台灣人都要來參觀的地方。

If you're in Taipei, chances are that you would be recommended to go to Jiufen. It was once a desolate town after the gold rush, and its low rent and unique environment attracted many local artists. Over the last few decades, some movies popularized Jiufen, and it is once again bustling with activity. We were told however, since businesses have taken over the area without showing support for the local art and cultural community, artists are slowly leaving the place.

我們走離開了許多觀光客的人群，往人煙較稀少的地方閒晃，看到了許多不一樣的老房與新房。　走走停停地看著風景吹著冷風，不停地拍照。來到了地圖上其中的一小景點－頌德公園。　有一隻狗狗出現，看著我們走過來，跳起來打聲＂招呼＂後，隨後跟著我們踏上腳步往頌德公園的階梯。這個奇妙的公園基本上就是一堆階梯，有著爬不完的木頭石子路。而這隻像似＂保鑣＂的狗，很＂盡責＂地帶我們爬上山，因為牠有四隻腳爬的比我們快，但卻會很神奇地走到一定的距離停下來確定我們有跟上。不知是否要帶我們去挖寶，看風景，還是其實是要帶我去被詛咒的地方？不過一切都不得而知，因為我們爬了不知有多久一直看不到終點，最後掉頭下山。這次很有靈性的狗狗也跟著我們下山，只是到半路的時候他就不等我們休息，最後就溜了。

Leaving the town and venturing up the hills, we found ourselves a guide. Our volunteer was a dog with a collar ringed with union jacks. It went ahead of us, stopping every now and then to check back on us before scurrying up the steps. We theorized that it is peeing periodically so it doesn't get lost. After we followed it for more than half an hour up a relatively steep hill in hopes of it leading us to some treasure or awesome lookout (and hopefully not somewhere haunted), we gave up and made our way back down. To our surprise, the dog followed us back down. It abandoned us after we stopped to catch our breath at a gazebo midway to town.

這裡是九份的第五號（應該是）坑口！早早就被當地人給封了起來，聽說是因為有小孩子會不知危險跑進去玩。其實坑洞，礦坑這種地方是很危險的，除了迷路以外，還有可能掉下裡頭早期挖的洞，是很可怕的。也因為地層下陷，坑口也變得只有小孩子身高般地高。

This is Number 5 tunnel. We were told it's locked up to prevent people from falling into one of the many random deep shafts. Young people liked to go in the cool (and sometimes chilly) tunnels during the summer to hide from the heat.

步行回到老街的途中，眼尖的我看到一座不起眼的建築物，上面寫著－九份金礦博物館。我們兩個猶豫了半天，最後才決定賭看看，就買個門票（NT $100）進去看看。別看他不起眼的外表，我們推薦你有機會去九份，就進去看看吧！

We chanced upon this little gem as the sun was setting. For just NT$100, you can enjoy a tour of a family's own private gold-mining museum. We highly recommend it.

這是一家有三代挖金歷史的家庭所經營的金礦博物館，館長會很熱情地解說歷史和有趣的學問！看這這位博物館大哥很細心地教我們九份獨特的金礦歷史，以及台灣特有的掏金術。他掏起來看起來似簡單，是吧？

Our guide was the son of one of the early gold prospectors, and he had committed himself to preserving the family trade and collection of relics. You will get to hear, see, and try with your own hands the unique techniques of gold mining/panning of this particular family, quite different from western/Japanese methods. Some equipment are so intricately designed and weighted that they can only be made by master carpenters, who have passed on without disciples. It is a pity such arts can be so easily lost to us.

但是當我們兩個實際自己嘗試時，我只有一個感想－錢難賺，金難掏啊！　我們兩個搖了半天，怎樣就是看不到金子。

We were told that if we sifted gold out from the rocks and dust, we would get to keep it. Alas, it was a lot harder than it looked and we left empty handed.

據說這裡是當年宮崎俊取靈感的地方，後來他創作出＂千里千尋＂（別名：神隱少女）這部動畫片，也是在他的作品裡我個人最愛之一。　你看，那有沒有像電影裡面湯婆婆的湯屋？

Jiufen is said to have served as an inspiration for Hayao Miyazaki's Spirited Away. The tunnels and lanterns that lit up the town at night do remind us of the film.